72 Km of the PCT – Marmots, Free Milkshakes and More
Intro My first thru-hike came in the form of a 5 day, 45 mile (72 Km) trip starting from Tuolomne Meadows in Yosemite, and finishing in the small mountain town of Mammoth Lakes, a 3 hour bus ride away. While working in Yosemite over the summer, my friend / former roommate / existential Youtube rabbithole afficionado – Misha, decided to visit me. He hiked almost a 1000 miles of the PCT the year before! After finishing his summer job at Banff National Park, he was eager to revisit one of his favorite sections. Lyell Canyon, Donahue Pass, Thousand Island Lakes, baby marmots, and much more can be found in the stunning Sierra Nevada Mountains of California. PCT hikers crush this section in 2 or 3 nights, but we decided to go slower and take time to enjoy the trail, doing the distance over 4 nights. If you’re not on a time crunch either, I highly recommend 4, maybe even 5 nights. So without further ado, here’s how it went. Day 1 – 9 Miles Misha and I hitched a ride from Yosemite Valley up to Tuolomne Meadows thanks to friends / fellow park workers / CRUSHERS, Pete and Janet. After a brief delay involving a camping trailer stuck in a ditch, we were on our way to the high country. We couldn’t help but admire the beautifully burning fires and crimson smoke in the distance. And so we began. Pete and Janet joined us for 8 miles of the trail before heading back to the valley. We had a blast swimming in the ice cold Tuolomne river, smoking a joint, and walking through stunning meadows. Pete broke a couple of Backpacking Ethics along the way (not gonna say how), but at least he has a cool trick with a sock from what he tells me. Might ask him to film a tutorial sometime. We finished our miles for the day and set up camp in Lyell Canyon, next to a pile of rocks housing a family of marmots! We saw a fluffy little marmot pup, and that’s when I knew I wanted one as a pet. Hikers Beware – Don’t leave your trekking poles lying around. These cute fuckers will chew and destroy the handles, so hang up your poles on a tree branch to keep em safe. An awesome start to the trip, and ready for what’s to come! Day 2 – 12 Miles Another beautiful day, clear of yesterday’s smoke, and it started off with some light shenanigans.. It’s 7 am and I’m squatted up a hill in some trees – answering the call of nature. All of a sudden, a hiker passing the trail below stops in perfect alignment with my coordinates. Straight ahead and 30 meters away. He takes out his phone, aims the back camera exactly at me and starts recording. ” Today is Towwwwwwwnnnnn Dayyyyyyyyyy Folks !!!!” It took 3 seconds until I realized he was just a regular old guy vlogging his hike and using the front camera. Thankfully he wasn’t filming me in 4k taking a shit behind some bushes, but in today’s world you never know. Soon after we started on trail and headed to Donohue Pass. 11,000 feet above sea level and sitting between the peaks of Lyell and Donohue. Marmot Abduction? Along the way we made a marmot friend, and I swam in another glacial river fed by a stubborn pile of snow. Crazy to think it hasn’t all melted by late July. And even crazier that the Russian guy is afraid of cold water (MiSHa). We reached the top of the pass and made more Marmot friends. Truly the most sociable wild animals I’ve met. I don’t know the laws around Marmot kidnapping but I’m willing to risk severe legal repercussions to have one. Coming down from Donohue we passed more meadows and eventually came to Thousand Island Lake. We set up camp for the second night beside a different lake close by. Small, shaded and full of mosquitos. It’s funny how when a couple of mosquitos are flying around our room at night, the mission is to assassinate each and every one with our weapons of choice (I like the classic Clap o’ Death). But outdoors it’s a whole different story. There aren’t 10, or even a 1000 mosquitos. There’s an infinite number of them. You have to nuke the whole national park to get rid of them. Even that might only work for a day. Day 3 – 13 miles We started off hiking on the upper ridge of a huge canyon below us, a light haze of smoke hugging the land. A mostly downhill day, descending into the canyon as we pass small streams, alpine flowers, and more breathtaking views. 3 horses carrying a family, and 3 more horses carrying tons of equipment rode past us. They left behind a cloud of dust, barn smell, and some thoughtful gifts on the trail ahead. I respect the horses, but why go backpacking and not even carry your own bags? It takes away from the feeling of accomplishment. The only exception I can imagine would be if you physically cannot walk or your dream is to be a cowboy (go for it). Devil’s Postpile Soon enough we ended up at a crossroads. We could take a shorter route to our campsite, or a longer route with a detour at American National Monument “The Devil’s Postpile” You bet your ass we checked out what in the fuck is a “Postpile” and why the devil made one. Turns out it’s basalt columns, made from the melting and cooling of lava (sounds devilish) and formed into tall hexagonal shaped columns of rock. I’ve never tried to summon Satan before, but if my life depended on it I think this is the place I’d give it a go. After soaking in the sun and indulging in the Devil’s Lettuce, we continued on to Red’s Meadow campground. Free Food 72 hours away
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